Did my Oil Tank Leak?

Our office gets phone call everyday with just that question.  Did my oil tank leak?  These calls typically come from property owners who hired a company to remove a tank and on the day the tank is actually removed, the owner is now informed that the tank leaked and expensive remediation is required.   Some people even get a proposal on the same day or within a few days of tank removal for remediation.

A few things about human nature, when we are presented with a problem and more so when the problem can be expensive to solve, we want to know how to fix it and the cost.  Bottom line as humans we fear the unknown for the most part.  Pertaining to oil tanks, when we are told our tank leaked, our first response is what will it take to clean up the tank problem?  The answer is directly tied to important questions that 90% of the time is not known on the day of tank removal.

The question is two-fold.  First, did my tank leak and two is remediation is required?  To be clear, most environmental regulations consider evidence of a release as holes in a tank after removal, visible oil in the tank grave and soils in the excavation that exhibit olfactory (smell) indications of the presence of petroleum.  All three or any one of these is an indication that the tank leaked SOME oil.   With the exception of visible oil in the ground, holes in a tank or the smell of oil in the soils in a tank grave are not indications that remediation is mandatory. Not even a field meter that can detect Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) can determine if remediation is warranted during tank removal.    Why is that the case?  Well it is relative to the fact that there are standards for petroleum in soils.  These standards are based on EPA approved testing methods, meaning certified laboratory analysis.  The way you actually test soil is to acquire samples of soil and submit said samples to a State certified laboratory for analysis.  These laboratory sample results are then compared to applicable state mandated soil standards.  Testing normally takes about a week to complete on average.

The point being unless you have laboratory data defining the petroleum levels in the soils, you do not know if remediation is necessary.

Often time’s people assess oil tanks pertaining to liability incorrectly.   People perceive the presence of an oil tank as a liability, but when it is removed or filled in place, they believe it is a non-issue.   Oil tanks represent an environmental and financial liability for a property, because when tanks leak there is an expense involved to assess the leak and in certain situations the need to remediate.  The costs to remediate can easily run into the thousands of dollars.  The real concern is if the tank leaked, not if my property has or had an oil tank.  How do you answer if a tank leaked? This is answered by testing the soil below the tank by independent laboratory analysis with a written narrative of the tank work and an interpretation of lab testing results.   Just as you cannot ascertain a cholesterol level without testing nor can you determine if an oil tank has leaked without proper evaluation and testing.

Nobody wakes up and says I want to make bad decisions today, but it happens.  What increases your chances of making a bad decision is deciding on something where you have no prior expertise and the decision is a once in a lifetime decision.  A good example of a situation where you can make a bad decision is removing an oil tank. In making a decision regarding whom to hire to manage your tank project, consider the following pitfalls:

Tank Removal Red Flags

1. Tank removal contract that assumes the tank is not leaking and provides no information regarding if the tank does leak. Let us agree any buried steel vessel will rust and eventually leak, it is a scientific fact that rust never sleeps.
2. Tank removal contract that does not include soil sample acquisition and analysis and what the laboratory results will mean. If you were buying a house where an oil tank was removed, we would want you to have a report of the tank removal and soil test results, otherwise how do you 100% if the tank did not leak?
3. A tank removal contact that does not specifically state that a report of the tank removal is included. To be fair, you are removing the tank to remove issues with the tank.  Wouldn’t a report of the tank removal be important to show a potential buyer?
4. Being told that any tank leaks would be addressed on the day of removal, with no other explanation as to how? This is called hand stamping and is too vague.  This often leads to your back being against a wall and staring at an expensive contract to remediate.
5. The vapor meter can tell us if the soil is good or bad during removal. Well the meter does tell you presence or absence, but there are no standards for field reading with a vapor meter.  Incidentally if you put perfume or cologne on and the meter was placed near your skin where the fragrance was applied the meter would light up with beeps and flashing lights.  However, they did not tell you that, oh and by the way you are not contaminated if that happens, just fragrant.
6. On the day of removal, evidence of a leak is noted and you are told that soil sampling is not necessary. This happens so often and is so wrong.  That is absolutely the wrong advice; this is when soil sampling is most important.  Why, because for a couple hundred dollars soil samples can be acquired and you will know if remediation is necessary.  The plus side for you is you can manage a tank leak very cheaply; the bad side for the environmental company is that they cannot run up a big bill for work that is not needed. 
7. You are told on the day of tank removal that remediation is required. How does the company know?   They just know, experience x-ray vision, some skill set a normal person does not possess.   Outside of oozing oil in the ground, the company does not know 100%.  Can your doctor predict cancer or heart issues from a visual assessment?   Can you look someone and know his or her cholesterol level?   If the company does not have laboratory testing completed, you will never know for sure.

These seven pitfalls should be avoided at all costs as you taking a path where you will be unpleasantly surprised.  All you need to do is google Oil tank Leak and you will be taken to some alarming web pages that extoll the problems and expensive of managing an oil tank leak.

So what do you do when you are told your oil tank leaked?

First, you ensure soil samples are acquired, two for tanks up to 550 gallons and three soil samples for tanks up to 1000 gallons.  The sample data is the only way to know if your petroleum levels in soil demand remediation.

Many firms will tell you that from experience and their observation they know that the tank leaked and you must remediate.  This is not correct without lab data.   However, let me flip the coin over; let us say that your tank removal company is moral and ethical and they take soil samples after the tank is removed.  These soil samples were acquired at say 6’ deep, as that was the bottom burial depth of the tank.   These samples are proven to have petroleum levels above State allowable limits, because of this you are presented with a cost to remediate.  What is this cost based on, well data from 6’ deep, because that is where the soil samples are from.  So how does the company know from just one sample location at 6’ how much soil they have to dig up?  The answer is they do not, the cost is a guess.  Oil spreads and is driven by gravity and rain to spread both horizontally and vertically.  Hey every spill a glass of liquid?  Liquid runs all over the place, may even favor a particular direction due to slope or direction of where the cup fell over.  My point being, how far oil has spread is unpredictable without doing further testing both deeper than where the tank was located as well as surrounding the area the area is unknown.  Every hire a contractor to give you a price for home improvement, maybe painting, kitchen or bathroom remodel.  This required a site visit to visually assess the situation.  Even then unknowns can pop up once walls start coming down.   Well after over 20 years in the environmental industry I cannot just look at the ground and determine the severity of the situation, nor can anyone else for that matter. 

The process of defining the extent of a tank leak is called delineation.  It is not unlike when someone is diagnosed with cancer.  Testing is done to define where the cancer has spread to so the doctor can apply the best method to treat the cancer.  Let us face it you would not jump into surgery without further testing or second opinions. Nor should you rely on a cost to remediate where the area is undefined.  You typically need five or more soil samples both deeper than the burial depth of the tank as well as around the tank grave to define an area, the number can actually increase if the leak is significant.

But hey this is just science, you have been told you have a tank leak and want a cost to remedy the situation.  But is the remedy appropriate?   Has the area been defined?  Is the company just trying to make more money? Still have questions?

We offer a free consultation to discuss your situation to make sure you are making the best decision possible.  888-301-1050

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No one wakes up and says "I want to make a bad decision", but it sometimes it happens. Bad decisions are made when you have a topic that you have no prior experience with, for example, mold remediation. 

Below are issues that could or have occured with mold testing and mold remediation companies: 

1. Do they have an office or do they work out of a house? Generally companies that work out of a home or have a PO Box number as opposed to a commercial address are smaller, less capable and  subcontract equipment and labor to complete a job.  These companies tend to close up shop after a few years.  We see it time and time again.
2. Ifa company says "This is an emergency mold situation and has to be completed ASAP (including a weekend)", it is a false statment. Mold doesn’t grow overnight, it takes time, weeks, months and often years to develop to a point that the mold problem even becomes visual.  Rush scheduling often is meant to lock you into getting the job done.  Trust me you can wait a few days to assess all your options.
3. Franchise companies have large overhead every month and this is reflected in their pricing. From interviewing past and former employees of these firms, we have established a pretty solid line of evidence that their training and expertise is lacking.   If a mold remediator can’t tell me how to remediate mold and they have been doing it for over a year, there is a problem with the company providing the service.
4. Mold companies that also do building trade services such as sheetrock and remodeling. These firms have a vested interest in removing more building materials they can be paid to replace what is removed.  Fox guarding the henhouse.
5. Any mold company that says THIS IS THE WORST I HAVE EVER SEEN, is most definitely wrong. How could your problem be that bad? Could your air tests be so highly concentrated with mold spores that it is the worst ever or even one of the worst?  Probably not, but if these companies get you thinking  it is, it would scare you to act.  We have seen many mildly impacted mold sites and some really bad ones.  When studying about mold you get trained on sites where occupants moved out and houses had to be demolished, THOSE are the worst sites not yours.  If it sounds like someone is trying to scare you, they probably are.
6. The worst mold companies are the ones that test for mold and provide no narrative regarding how they tested, where and what the results mean. They give you test results, saying the laboratory said that the levels are “X” amount and that means they are high.    Unless the lab came to your property, they have no idea.  The lab only knows that the sample was marked for this address and the levels found are what they saw in the sample, nothing more.  The mold testing company needs to say they saw 2000 sq. ft. of mold or it was 2 sq. ft. and they sampled the worst area and YES they expected the results to be really high.  We see this all the time and we expect that these firms base their samples to get inflated results to scare you.
7. Lastly, they tell you they are certified. There are NO State or Federal Mold regulations or certifications.  In truth, there is no Federal or State license for mold remediation.  Only New York State has a certification and licensing program and that only started on January 1, 2016.  Every other state has no program, so if a company is pitching their license they are pitching you know what.

Earth day became a National day from Earth Day founder Gaylord Nelson, a U.S. Senator from Wisconsin.  Founded in 1970, Senator Nelson was inspired after witnessing the 1969 massive oil spill in Santa Barbara, California.  Following the anti-war movement, Senator Nelson thought that he could bring this to colleges across America with campus teach-ins. Working with Pete McCloskey, a Republican Congressman as co-chair they recruited Harvard student Denis Hayes.  Denis Hayes was very interested in what Senator Nelson had in mind for the environment that he directly went to interview Senator Nelson and from the interview, Denis Hayes became the national coordinator building a staff of 85 to promote events, selecting April 22^nd as the Earth Day date because it fell between spring break and final exams. 

On April 22^nd, 1970 over 20 million Americans were lead to streets, parks and large gatherings to demonstrate the need to for a healthy and sustainable environment. Earth Day received such support from both the Republicans and the Democrats that by the end of the first year (1970) the government created the Environmental Protection Agency, Clean Air Act, Clean Water Act and the Endangered Species Acts.  By 1990 Earth day became global with more than 200 million people in over 141 countries involved with environmental issues taking the world stage.  Recycling efforts became more global leading to the 1992 United Nations Earth Summit.  Senator Nelson received the Presidential Medal of Freedom in 1995 for his contribution of Earth Day.

Now, Earth day is celebrated by more than a billion people ever year.  What can you do on Earth Day, April 22^nd, 2016?

Events in New Jersey, Central PA,  Philadelphia, and check out the EPA for events around the country.

It always sounds good an, inherited property.  You can reap the benefits by keeping the property as your home or selling the property to cash out.  What doesn’t sound good is if this inherited property has an underground oil tank and to top that, the oil tank leaked.  When you inherit a property, you may be inheriting years of hassles, aggravation lawsuits and a financial abyss. How can you get around this? If you have already accepted the inheritance than you just inherited the problem and you should seek an environmental consultant and an environmental attorney.  The laws state that whoever owns the property owns the problem.

What should you do before inheriting the property?

You need to understand that you are not required to accept the inheritance.  You have a choice to either disclaim it or renounce it.  Even if you are bequeathed multiple separate items, such as cash and jewelry, you can accept and not the other.  With a property, you can’t take only a part of piece of property and reject the remainder.  It is very important that you assess the property for environmental issues and discuss with your attorney your options when dealing with an inherited property. It happened recently in Califormia, a large property was inherited and found contaminated, to read the full story click here. 

Hire an Attorney and Environmental Consultant.

When inheriting a property, residential or commercial, you should consult with an attorney.  The attorney should be in environmental law and explain that Due Diligence is necessary to assess the property prior to acquisition.  If there is any chance that your inherited property may be polluted, or there is an underground oil tank, you need to hire an environmental consultant.  If there is any chance that there was or may still be an oil tank on the property a tank scan should be performed.  A tank scan consists of taking measures to properly scan the property for an oil tank.  The property should be scanned with a Ground Penetrating Radar system.  This system uses a series of radar wave pulses that are directed below ground.  When a solid object is encountered such as a metal tank, the waves are reflected back to the surface with a distinct signature. GPR tends to be more reliable , than a metal detector, as metal detectors are not discriminating and will pick up naturally occurring metal in the ground, metal from buried pipes, metal in the house, fences ect.   The best approach is GPR with a metal detector verification.  If this property is a commercial property you should consider a Phase I, for more information on Phase I click here.

Did the property have an Underground Oil Tank?

Find out first if there was ever an oil tank located at the property. If the dwelling is older than 1940 or was built in 1940 to 1985, there is a possibility of an underground oil tank.  Older homes in regards to heat sources started out with wood or coal then moved to oil heating.  Also, 9 times out of 10 if there is an above ground oil tank there probably was an underground oil tank.  You may check with the borough to find out if a permit was provided to take the underground oil tank out of the ground.  But, that permit does not answer the question if the oil tank leaked.  The only answer the permit allows is that there was an underground oil tank and that tank was taken out of the ground.  The borough does not test the soil for any leak from the tank, not do they require it.  Tank removal is a construction activity, tank leaking is environmental and is handled on a state level, not on a local level.

If you do find out that there was an underground oil tank and that said tank was taken from the ground, that environmental company may have taken soil samples to make sure there was no leak.  That environmental company would hopefully, have given the property owner a report on the soil samples and if the tank leaked or did not leak.

If you have no records of any soil samples or soil testing that it is advised to get soil samples done. First you would check the soil for any contamination. In the New Jersey there are regulations of how much contamination can be in located in the soil.  If there is contamination, there may be a need to test the groundwater as well. 

Did you know that Mold comes in many different colors?

 At Curren, some of the most common questions are regarding the color of mold. For example:

 "Is this mold bad because the mold is black or grey?"

 "What type of mold is black mold?"

 “Is black mold toxic?"

The most popular used term for describing mold is “Black Mold”. Technically, there is no mold that is named black mold, many sources attribute the term black mold to the media. In reality there are many different types and colors of mold. Some types of Mold can be harmful (regardless if the mold is black) and can cause health issues.

Molds come in many different colors and can mean many different things. As you can see below, mold may be black, grey, orange, green, brown and even white. Many molds may not be harmful. Black mold may be completely innocuous (not harmful or producing no injury) or it could be problematic. Mold can be difficult to determine on your own. The mold you think you see might just be mildew or dirt. Remember, mold is usually not a problem unless mold spores land on something wet  indoors. Mold evaluation and interpretation is best left to the experts. At Curren, we have over 20 years’ experience testing mold, air testing and mold remediation.

Black Mold                    Green Mold

White & Black Mold        Brown Mold

Grey Mold                     

Please don't hesitate to call us for your mold testing, mold remediation and mold questions at 888-301-1050.

Who Requires A

Phase I Environmental Site Assessment (ESA)?

In short the Phase I is a historical and walking inspection of a property for environmental hazards or as we call them AOCs (Areas of Concern).  Like the pit and piping in the photo below which held oil.  Did the oil leak into the soils and groundwater?  A Phase I would tag this as an AOC and a Phase Ii would be recommended.

Who Requires A Phase I Environmental Site Assessment (ESA)?

Traditionally, a Phase I Environmental Site Assessment (ESA) was contracted by the bank or lending institution on properties where financing was being arranged.  The Phase I was primarily performed for the protection of the banks, who were concerned that if they loaned money for a contaminated property they may be held liable for the site cleanup.   This belief was incorrect as banks have liability protection on loans.   Today, many banks with loans under a million dollars and borrowers supplying a down payment do not require a Phase I.  This has been an industry shift over the past several years as banks have come to understand where their limit of liability stands.    The real liability is financially for the bank, as they are concerned that the cost of environmental work can hinder the borrower from paying the mortgage and defaulting.  Leaving the bank to own the asset.   Banks want to loan money and receive mortgage payments not foreclose on bad loans.

What is included in a Phase I?

The Phase I is a property assessment that includes a walkover of the property and associated structures; a review of historic property information including maps, aerial photographs, deeds, telephone or address directories, etc.; a review of contaminated properties in the vicinity of the subject property; a summary of knowledgeable party information and review of prior reports; and the review of local, State and Federal files pertaining to the property address.

Items evaluated in the Phase I report include tanks, drains, pits, spills, in-ground and aboveground equipment, petroleum and chemical use, and environmental liens.

The Phase I report is typically research only.  Unless otherwise specified as part of the scope of work, testing or surveys are outside of the typical Phase I requirements. For more information on Phase I click here. 

Why complete a Phase I if my bank does not require one?

Although many banks are not requiring a Phase I on some commercial loans (under a million or low risk), the environmental regulations leave the burden of environmental responsibility on the property owner.  Performing a Phase I, allows a purchaser to complete the necessary due diligence.  This due diligence enables a purchaser to obtain prior to taking possession of a property.  Buyer beware is relevant now more than ever in commercial real estate transactions.  If a property is purchased without a due diligence and future evaluation and subsequent environmental issues are found in association with the property, the property owner is now burdened with the cost of remediating the issue. The performance of a pre-purchase Phase I could alleviate the potential for finding environmental issues in the future and thereby holding up future transactions.  As a potential purchaser, the determination of environmental issues on a property could be used as leverage for the seller to remediate the concern prior to purchase or could be used to negotiate the property value pending the need for the potential purchaser to perform the cleanup.

If I do not do a Phase I and buy a property how would I ever find out if there was an environmental problem with the site?

The most common way is when you go to sell and the potential buyer completes a Phase I and discovers an environmental Area of Concern (AOC).   Today the largest purchaser of Phase I’s is not the banks, but commercial real estate investors and owners (*transactions under $1,000,000.00).

I own a property, never had a Phase I and I am now thinking of selling the property.  Do property owners have Phase I’s performed?

One of the largest shifts in the commercial real estate market today is that many landowners are having a Phase I performed to root out environmental issues before they become an issue when a buyer is found.   An owner performed Phase I is viewed as both a marketing tool and an environmental property assessment that can help sellers anticipate issues with a property.  It can be akin to a homeowner having a home inspection completed to address issues that a purchaser might find during their inspection. 

If an environmental issue is found in a Phase I report on a property I am buying, can I still purchase the property?

If the issue is fully disclosed to the lender (if one is involved) and the buyer is willing to accept the liability and cost of addressing the issue, then yes you can buy the property.  However, the real question is should I address the issue before buying the property?

The investigation of potential issues found in the Phase I is typically addressed as part of a Phase II Environmental Site Assessment.

Curren has completed tens of thousands of Phase I, II & II projects and we have been doing it for close to 30 years.  We do all work with company personnel and we own the equipment to do both Phase II and II work.

Call the experts   888-301-1050

What is Incandescent?

The incandescent light bulb or lamp is a source of electric light that works by incandescence, which is the emission of light caused by heating the filament. They are made in an extremely wide range of sizes, wattages, and voltages. On January 1^st, 2014, by a law passed by Congress in 2007, these bulbs can no longer be manufactured in the U.S. because they don’t meet federal energy efficiency standards. Many other countries have adopted the same type of law as well due the fact that other types (CFL, LED) are much more energy efficient.

What is CFL?

Compact fluorescent lamps (CFL) are smaller versions of standard fluorescent lamps. They consume much less energy but provide light that is comparable to incandescent lights. Also, they can generally directly replace standard incandescent bulbs. Per the EPA, Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs will help you save money by using less energy, reducing the amount of light bulb changes and most importantly lowering the greenhouse gas emissions which inevitably will lead to climate change.  More information can be found one the EPA website. To find out more about costs, visit Home Depot.

What is LED?

LED (Light emitting diodes) is a semiconductor devise that emits light when and electronic current is passed through it. A study found that over their lifetime LEDs cost $95 to operate compared to CFLs that cost $159 and incandescent bulbs that cost $652. LED bulbs are available in options that either emits a warm, soft glow or a cool, bright glow depending on your preference. Some types perform well outdoors even in cold temperatures. Dimmable options are also available. LEDs (light emitting diodes) use 75-80% less energy than incandescent light bulbs and last 50,000 hours helping you save energy and money. For more information on cost, check out Lowe’s for LED light bulbs.

Which light bulb should you use?  Until LED bulbs drop in price, most people will not realize savings if installed on all fixtures.  Generally speaking, lights that will remain on for an extended period of time (kitchen, family, hallway and dining areas) will benefit the most as they consume electricity for longer periods of time.  Closets, bathrooms, laundry rooms are areas where light is not constantly on and thus do not warrant energy efficient lighting.  As light bulb prices drop, as they have in recent years, it may be more economical to replace all lights with energy efficient lighting.  Your best bet is to choose an ENERGY STAR Certified Light Bulb.  These use 70% to 90% less energy than traditional incandescent light bulbs and can last 10 to even 25 times longer.  This can save you $30 to $80 over the lifetime of the light bulb.  How many times do you change your light bulbs – you do the math.

Are you taking a 20 minute shower? Do you leave the water running while washing dishes?

There are many theories and thoughts about our water supply.  Are we going to have enough in the future?  Is our water supply depleting?  We have stories from NASA, CBS News, and the National Geographic, these stories are telling us that we need learn how to conserve water.  Water conservation is using water efficiently and avoiding waste. Everyday use of water such as dishwasher use, laundry use and long hot showers significantly reduce clean water and add to more strain on septic and sewage systems which then lead to contamination of groundwater.  Conserving water is a national topic and the information that can be found on the web is abundant. 

Earth is made of 70 percent of water but only 1 percent of that is considered fresh, clean water available for use.

Tips for conserving water: 

1. When washing dishes by hand, don't let the water run while rinsing. Fill one sink with wash water and the other with rinse water.
2. Adjust sprinklers so only your lawn is watered and not the house, sidewalk, or street.
3. Run your dishwasher only when it is full and you could save 400 gallons a month.
4. Use the garbage disposal sparingly. Compost instead and save gallons every time.
5. Plant during the spring or fall when the watering requirements are lower.
6. Use a layer of organic mulch around plants to reduce evaporation and save hundreds of gallons of water a year.
7. Turn off the water while you brush your teeth and save 3 gallons a minute. That's more than 1000 gallons a year.
8. Direct downspouts and other runoff towards shrubs and trees, or collect and use for your
9. Time your shower to keep it under 5 minutes. You'll save up to 1000 gallons a month.
10. Consider installing new appliances. They are more water and energy-efficient than older appliances. A new washing machine can save up to 20 gallon per load.
11. Install low-volume toilets.
12. Put food coloring in your toilet tank. If it seeps into the toilet bowl, you have a leak. It's easy to fix, and you can save more than 7000 gallons a year.
13. Soak your pots and pans instead of letting the water run while you scrape them clean.
14. Do one thing each day that will save water. Every drop counts!
15. Start a compost pile. Using compost when you plant adds water-holding organic matter to the soil.
16. Aerate your lawn. Punch holes in your lawn about six inches apart so water will reach the roots rather than run off the surface.
17. Turn off the water while you shave and you can save more than 100 gallons a week.
18. Do not use water to defrost your food, put it in your refrigerator to defrost.
19. Store drinking water in the refrigerator rather than letting the tap water run cold
20. Install Rain Barrels

What are Rain Barrels?

A Rain Barrel (rainwater tank) is a water tank used to collect and store rain water runoff, typically from rooftops via rain gutters.

Why install a Rain Barrel?

Drought and aquifer mining are increasing in terms of use. Many people are looking for a ways to minimize the impact of their municipal water supplies. Installing a rain barrel is way to help conserve water.  You will have your own water source in case of a drought.  You can water your garden from your rain barrel reserves.  Having your own rain barrel helps reduce runoff pollution by collecting water before it hits the fertilizer, and increase algae growth in lakes. Rainwater, unlike tap water, doesn’t have the salt and chemicals.

Photo courtesy of Emma Howell, Shawnee High School.

Some interesting facts about Rain Barrels: 1-inch of rain on a 1,000 square foot roof yields 623 gallons of water. Calculate the yield of your roof by multiplying the square footage of your roof by 623 and divide by 1,000. Depending on your roof area, a rain barrel can fill up when there has been as little as 1/10th-inch of rain. To collect twice this volume from the same downspout, connect the overflow hose from the first rain barrel to a second rain barrel.

Conserving water helps the community, the environment and may even help lower your electric bills.  Conserving water may also help keep moisture away from your house, keeping possible mold from growing in your home.

Check your local County website for different ways you can help and conserve your own water.  Many counties offer free classes on conserving water and how to build your own rain barrels. 

Green Lawn Tips

Remember what your lawn looked like last year?  Good or bad lets get it green.  Here are a few tips to get started.

Americans spend over $6.4 Billion a year on lawn care, according to the Professional Lawn Care Association of America. Why not get started in the spring to ensure a beautiful green and healthy lawn.

Start out by checking the soil pH levels.  Winter can alter the soil pH and create conditions that are friendly to weeds and disease.  The soils pH should read between 6.5 and 7.0 which are slightly acidic. You can test your soils pH by purchasing a pH tester.  After the soil has been checked, invest in a rental aerator.  In high traffic areas grass becomes compacted.  The aerator will draw wine cork-sized plugs out of the lawn surface giving roots the room to spread and allow for air, nutrients and moisture to penetrate the soil.

Pro Tip 1

The soil cores should not be raked always, as they contain bacteria and nutrients that will return to the soil.

In the early spring, apply a pre-emergent weed control to prevent crabgrass.

 Pro Tip 2

½ the dosage of preemergent and reapply in 3 weeks to increase the treatment duration.  Try to get your immediate neighbors to do the same so you encompass a larger spread of weed control.  If your neighbor does not apply preemergent, weeds can grow and move to your yard.

During late spring fix any patchy places and apply your seed.  When seeding in the spring it is pertinent that you provide consistent watering to allow the seed to germinate

Pro Tip 3

Water twice a day for 7 to 10 days to allow the seed to germinate.

When watering, make sure one inch of water to 12 inches of soil is preferred ratio for watering actively growing grass.  You most likely will have to seed again in the fall months.

With the spring upon us, it is very important to prepare your lawn for the warmer, sunnier months ahead.  Having a nice, thick green lawn helps with excess rain, capturing the moisture so it does not end up in your house and produce mold. 

IDo you think you have mold in your home or dwelling?  Curren can answer your questions call now at 888-301-1050 or email at info@currenenvironmental.com. 

Why does the 1^st day of Spring Start on March 19^th?

What is the first day of spring?  Well, naturally it means the flowers are supposed to bloom, the day is longer, the weather gets warmer and the rain never stops.  Astronomically speaking, it is when the equinox occurs when the Sun crosses the celestial equator on its way north along the ecliptic.   

In the years 2008 and 2012, those living in Alaska, Hawaii and the Pacific, Mountain and Central Time Zones on March 19. And in 2016, it if you are in California it will start on March 19, for the Eastern states it will be on March 20^th at 12:30 AM.

There are a few reasons why seasonal dates can vary from year to year.

A year is not an even number of days and neither are the seasons. To try and achieve a value as close as possible to the exact length of the year, our Gregorian Calendar was constructed to give a close approximation to the tropical year which is the actual length of time it takes for the Earth to complete one orbit around the Sun. It eliminates leap days in century years not evenly divisible by 400, such 1700, 1800, and 2100, and millennium years that are divisible by 4,000, such as 8000 and 12000.

Another reason is that the Earth's elliptical orbit is changing its orientation relative to the Sun (it skews), which causes the Earth's axis to constantly point in a different direction, called precession. Since the seasons are defined as beginning at strict 90-degree intervals, these positional changes affect the time Earth reaches each 90-degree location in its orbit around the Sun.

The pull of gravity from the other planets also affects the location of the Earth in its orbit.

So Spring doesn’t start on March 21^st not even March 20^th for the western and mid-western states. Find your date and mark your calendars for the first day of spring! Get the garden tools out, check the lawn mower and prepare your cleaning supplies a day earlier.  Also, check your downspouts and make sure there is proper drainage that slopes the ground away from the foundation of your house or dwelling to ensure no water or moisture gets in to prevent against indoor mold.

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